The Unsinkable Apple Pie
The classic American pie often displays an empty space between the top crust and the apple filling because the apples sink considerably in the baking. Of course, there is the crumb topping, but my favorite part of a pie is a rich flaky crust. I have experimented and tweaked the classic recipe and, I believe, improved on it not only by eliminating that empty space by partially cooking down the apples to begin with and straining off excess juice, but also by using an instant tapioca thickener, 3 varieties of apples, candied ginger and Calvados. The tapioca perfectly thickens the filling leaving it neither runny nor dense. The variety of apples and the candied ginger add a complexity of taste and the Calvados gives it just the right kick.
Ingredients:
Dough for bottom crust:
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
2 T superfine sugar
1 t salt
4 T butter
4 T Crisco
1 egg yolk
ice water
Repeat ingredients for top crust.
3 Golden Delicious apples
3 Macoun apples
3 Granny Smith apples
¾ cup sugar
juice and zest of 1 lemon
4 pieces candied ginger, cut into a small dice
1 t cinnamon
¼ t freshly grated nutmeg
2 T instant tapioca
¼ cup Calvados
2 T butter
egg wash of 1 beaten egg yolk
1 T turbinado (raw) sugar
Procecure:
For bottom crust, place flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor with metal blade in place. Pulse just until mixed. Add butter and Crisco in 1-tablespoon pieces and egg yolk. Process until only pea size pieces of fat remain. Distribute 3 tablespoons ice water over mixture and process just until mixture holds together when pinched between fingers. Add a little more water if necessary. Form into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a half hour. Repeat process for top crust. Better results are obtained if each crust is made separately.
While pie dough is chilling, make filling. Peel and core apples. Cut each quarter into 4 slices. As slices are placed in a bowl, add sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest from time to time and toss. Add candied ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Spoon into a saucepan and cook stirring from time to time on moderate heat until apples reduce but are not cooked through. Mix in 2 tablespoons instant tapioca. Remove from heat and stir in Calvados. Let cool. Strain and save juice. Straining the juice is an important step to assure the firm filling you see in the photo.
Roll out bottom pie crust to a 12-inch round and fit into a 9-inch pie pan. Trim overhang. Spoon apple filling onto bottom crust, mounding in the center. Scatter 2 tablespoons butter cut into small bits onto filling. Roll out top crust to a 12-inch round, place over filling, trim overhang and crimp edges. Make 3 or 4 cuts in top crust to let steam out. Lightly brush crust with egg wash and sprinkle on turbinado sugar. Place pie on the middle shelf of a preheated baking sheet in a 450 degree oven for 10 minutes then turn down to 350 and bake for 45 minutes or until crust is golden brown and thick juices are bubbling up. Cool on rack. Simmer the juice you have saved until thickened to a syrupy consistence. Serve pie with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream over which you have ladled 2 T of the apple syrup. Generously serves six.
Photographer Bill Brady http://bit.ly/9wFYxm Food Stylist Brian Preston Campbell
- Kaitlin // March 31, 2010 at 10:49 pm | Reply
Woah – I knew something was different about this pie from looking at the picture, but I wasn’t expecting the process to be so unique! Although my grandma might kill me, I’d really like to try this out!
- deana@lostpastremembered // April 1, 2010 at 12:49 am | Reply
That is one perfect pie.. .great photo too. How do you make it stay that tall???
- Cherine // April 1, 2010 at 7:04 am | Reply
Absolutely gorgeous and mouth-watering!
- dario // April 1, 2010 at 8:08 am | Reply
Nice blog, with good photos and excellent recipes! bookmarked!
http://foodpixels.wordpress.com/ - XiXI // April 1, 2010 at 8:25 am | Reply
OMG – i have died & gone to apple pie filling heaven
- Sandie {Inn Cuisine} // April 1, 2010 at 3:15 pm | Reply
I love apple pie, and am ALWAYS open to new recipes. This one looks divine. Love how thick and full it is—it reeks of abundance!
- mangiodasola // April 1, 2010 at 8:03 pm | Reply
I’ve never heard of Calvados, and I like that you included tapioca. Your pie looks perfect.
- phylliskirigin // April 1, 2010 at 10:55 pm | Reply
deana,
Thanks for your comment. In response to your question, the pie stays tall because it is thickened with instant tapioca and the excess liquid is drained off before the filling is placed in the shell. Happy baking!
sweetpaprika.wordpress.com- billbrady // April 2, 2010 at 3:33 am | Reply
Nice work Phyllis. People see to love the recipe.
- billbrady // April 2, 2010 at 3:33 am | Reply
- kathy // April 2, 2010 at 4:54 am | Reply
Apple pies are really my favorite! Yours is the best I’ve seen so far. It’s oozing with fillings. lol. Thanks for the great tip.
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