Chocolate! Chocolate! Chocolate!

Chocoholic Heaven: Chocolate Mousse

Is there a more romantic dessert than chocolate mousse?  Simple, yet elegant.  The quintessence of velvety richness.  Topped perhaps with a dollop of freshly whipped cream and a few chocolate shavings.  However, it can certainly stand on its own.  Many identify Julia Child’s chocolate mousse as the classic version and true, it has a unique mouthfeel that is airy, almost foamy.  However, it uses eggs that are never cooked and, even though there is only a tiny chance of salmonella, I prefer a safer version that is rich and velvety.

There are just a few ingredients so the quality of the chocolate plays an important role in the outcome. Also, I suggest a bittersweet or semisweet chocolate containing between 50 and 60% cacao.  A higher percentage will produce a drier result.  Be sure to serve the mousse in pretty dessert goblets. And ladies, if you have ever doubted that the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, you’ve never served him chocolate mousse.

Ingredients (8 servings)

2 cups heavy cream

4 yolks from large eggs

3 T superfine sugar

1 t pure vanilla extract

7 oz. bittersweet chocolate, melted

Directions

1. In a small saucepan heat 2/3 cup cream just until it starts to steam.

2. Whisk together egg yolks and sugar in a separate bowl.

3. Slowly add half of the hot cream to the egg yolk mixture until thoroughly combined.

4. Add the warm egg-cream back into the hot cream in the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly until the mixture reaches 165 on a digital thermometer.

5. Off heat, stir in the vanilla and melted chocolate.

6.  Chill thoroughly.

7. Whip remaining 1 1/3 cups cream in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form.

8. Stir about 1/3 of the whipped cream into the chocolate custard and then gently fold in the remainder until no streaks appear.  Serve chilled.

(Adapted from a recipe by Rebecca Franklin)

Chocolate Reveries

by Victor Ribaudo

Some of my fondest gastronomic memories involve chocolate.  I’d venture to guess that I’m not alone here.  What is it about chocolate that causes our hearts to skip a beat when it’s presented to us in its many sumptuous forms?  Nay . . . even the thought of chocolate for some can trigger and inner longing that may lead to heady, euphoric ecstasy – causing faintness of breath!  OK, maybe I exaggerate, as I am wont to do.  (After all, I am Italian.  It’s genetic.)  The point is chocolate to most of us is a luxury we cannot do without.  I’m in that league.

When I was a child, my grandmother often made me chocolate sandwiches.  Yes, you read correctly.  She’d take crusty Italian bread, toast it in the oven, and then sandwich a chocolate bar in between the slices.  She’d press it with her hands, and the heat from the toasted bread sufficiently softened the chocolate bar to a silky consistency.  I was in heaven.  And I wanted more of it.  She also prepared something called cuccia for me on St. Lucy’s Day (December 13th).  This was a pudding made from cooked wheat berries, milk, candied fruit and chocolate.  Oh yes, it was as good as it sounds.  There were usually lots of wheat berries left over.  These were served to me the rest of the week for breakfast, swimming in warm chocolate milk.  Beats cold cereal any day.  Of course, I was often treated to the chocolate candies, cakes and brownies every kid begs for at the supermarket.  What can I say . . . they spoiled me!

At Easter . . . well, is there anything more heartwarming than a chocolate bunny?  My Mom procured the best, of course, from a chocolatier shoppe on 86th Street in Brooklyn.  The ears were solid, and so they were my preference.  And let’s not forget the chocolate drives at school.  My aunts and uncles would buy boxes of those bars from me, only to hand them right back for my sister and me to enjoy.  I especially loved the smell that wafted from the boxes as I opened them.  Those bars of chocolate were ridiculously delicious – melt-in-your-mouth velvetiness and studded with tons of roasted almonds to boot.  Amazing!

So you see, I was predestined to love chocolate.  Naturally, as my culinary tastes grew more sophisticated, I searched for even more heightened chocolate experiences.  Not hard to find.  Every fine restaurant has at least two chocolate creations on the dessert menu.  My first foray into that world began with chocolate mousse.  (Please check out Phyllis’ recipe above (it’s outstanding.)  Then I was enamored by the molten chocolate cake.  Who could resist that hot chocolate lava oozing from a petite cake.  Looks innocent until your fork breaks the crust. Then watch out!  Black Forest Cake also became an uncontrollable passion for me.  After all, chocolate and cherries were destined to fall in love.

And so it goes.  Double, triple, quadruple chocolate cakes and pastries…love them all.  Hot or cold chocolate puddings…bring them on.  Chocolate covered donuts…hot fudge sundaes…chocolate chip cookies…chocolate dipped strawberries…chocolate liqueurs.  Can’t get enough of them.  Extravagant?  By all means.  I mean, we must live to eat.  That’s my motto.

Want someone to fall in love with you?  Bake something chocolaty for them.  If the recipe calls for hard baker’s chocolate, be sure to melt it in a double boiler. Easy.  Just place a mixing bowl over simmering water, and stir continuously until the desired consistency is achieved.  Then you’re good to go with whatever recipe you have on hand.  Watch out though;  it’s intoxicating.  The person you serve it to might take this as a proposal of marriage.  The rest is up to you.

Photographer Bill Brady
Written by Victor Ribaudo
Recipe by Phyllis Kirigin
Food Stylist BrianPreston Campbell
Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

1. therunninggarlic says:

   February 23, 2011 at 6:26 pm

   Chocolate … in all it’s glory! Fantastic photos and lovely memories!
   Debbie

   Reply
2. Charlie Bakes says:

   February 24, 2011 at 1:30 am

   I love your pictures with all of the light. And I also love your chocolate mousse recipe, keep up the great work!!
   Charlie, 12 year old food blogger

   Reply
3. carine says:

   February 24, 2011 at 11:58 am

   Oh…chocolate…Glorious chocolate….You made my day…thanks~

   Reply
4. TheyCallMeAmber says:

   February 24, 2011 at 12:33 pm

   Beautiful photos. I have a hankering for some chocolate now.

Holiday Rum Cake

How about a lovely aromatic rum cake for the upcoming holidays?  This is basically a pound cake yet redolent with just the right amount of dark rum to pique your palate.  Should you want a more intense confection, poke a few small holes in the finished cake and brush on a little more rum.  Adorn with a dollop of freshly whipped cream.

Ingredients

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup light brown sugar, packed

½ t salt

2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

4 large eggs

3 yolks from large eggs

2 t vanilla extract

½ cup quality dark rum

Whipped cream for topping

Directions

1. Adjust rack to lower third of the oven and heat to 325 degrees.

2. Place flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer and affix paddle attachment.  Add butter and beat on lowest speed until well mixed.

3.  In another bowl, whisk together eggs, egg yolks, vanilla and rum, mixing well.

4. Add 1/3 of the wet ingredients to the stand mixer bowl and beat at medium speed for 2 minutes.  Scrape down bowl.

5. Add another 1/3 to the mixer and beat for 2 minutes, scraping down bowl again.

6. Add final 1/3, beat and scrape as before.

7. Scrape batter into a buttered and floured 12-cup Bundt pan, smooth top and place in oven.

8. Bake for about 60 to 75 minutes or until a toothpick inserted between edge and center of pan comes out clean.  There may be a few dry crumbs attached.

9. Let cool on a rack for about 10 minutes, then invert  and release from pan to continue cooling.  Add a dollop of whipped cream to each serving.  Store by wrapping in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil.

Photos by Michael Kirigin

A Perfect for Passover Cheesecake

This light, ethereal cheesecake is perfect Passover fare.  In addition to cream cheese, this Italian version includes sour cream for tang and ricotta for lightness.  The citrus zest is a must.  Cake meal easily replaces the traditional wheat flour.

Ingredients

1 lb. whole milk ricotta cheese

1 lb. sour cream

1 lb. cream cheese (or mascarpone)

1 ½ cups granulated sugar

1 stick sweet butter, melted

Pinch of salt

3 large eggs

½ cup cake meal, divided

1 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 ½ T pure vanilla extract

Finely grated zest from one orange and one lemon

Directions

1. Have all filling ingredients at room temperature.  Grease and coat with 2 T cake meal the bottom and sides of a 9 X 3-inch springform pan.

2. In a stand mixer beat together ricotta, sour cream and cream cheese until well mixed.

3. Beat in sugar and then melted butter and pinch of salt.

4. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.

5. Add 6 T cake meal, lemon juice, vanilla, and zest, beating until completely mixed.

6. Transfer to prepared pan and bake in a preheated 300 degree oven for one hour.

7. Turn off heat and let cake stay in oven, door closed, for another hour.

8. Remove and let cake cool completely in pan, set on a wire rack.  Cover and refrigerate.  Remove sides of pan before serving and serve slightly chilled.

Raspberry Coulis

In a small saucepan, mash and heat ½ pint of fresh raspberries with 6 oz. raspberry preserves and 1 T Grand Marnier, stirring until syrupy. Strain syrup and mix with ½ pint fresh raspberries.  Serve with cheesecake.

Photo by sweetpaprika

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chocolate Cake with Mocha Buttercream Frosting

This is the cake everyone in my family requests for a birthday cake.  It’s rich, decadent and luscious.  Chef John Clancy taught me how to make the buttercream frosting.  I have scoured my cookbook collection and the Internet for the perfect chocolate cake.  This is as close as I have come.

I have made two changes from Christopher Kimball’s chocolate cake in The Cook’s Bible.  First I have substituted an extra ¼ cup of cocoa for ¼ cup of flour to make it more chocolaty.  Secondly,  I have used a technique I learned from cake decorator Scott Woolley for helping to assure a moist cake.  Instead of allowing the cake to cool off when removed from the oven and thereby losing moisture, he wraps the layers immediately in aluminum foil and places them in the freezer.  This also makes frosting the cake easier as there are no loose crumbs.

Chocolate Cake

Ingredients

1 ¼ cups cake flour

¾ cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa

2 t instant espresso powder

¼ t baking powder

½ t baking soda

½ t kosher salt

12 T unsalted butter, softened

1 ¼ cups sugar

2 eggs, room temperature

1 egg white, room temperature

1 ½ t vanilla extract

1 cup buttermilk

Procedure

1. Grease the bottom of two 8-inch baking pans.  Line with parchment paper.  Grease paper (I use butter) and flour pans.  Turn pans upside down and lightly tap  to remove excess flour.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Place oven rack in the middle position.

3. Sift flour, cocoa, instant espresso, baking powder, baking soda and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.

4. Add butter to the bowl of an electric mixer and beat for 1 minute or until light-colored.

5. Add sugar gradually and beat on medium-high speed for 3 minutes until mixture is very light-colored and fluffy (scrape down 2 or 3 times).

6. Add whole eggs and egg white one at a time, beating for 20 seconds after each addition.  Add the vanilla and beat for 10 seconds.

7. Add the flour mixture in three parts alternately with the buttermilk.  Beat on low speed after each addition and scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula.  Do not overbeat.

8. Pour batter into pans and bake 25-30 minutes.  Test for doneness by inserting a toothpick.  It should come out clean.

9. Now here’s the part that might surprise you.  Don’t let the cake cool. Instead, wrap well in aluminum foil and place in freezer.  This will help to insure a moist cake that will be easy to frost.

Mocha Buttercream Frosting

Ingredients

¾ cup milk

3 egg yolks

1 ¼ cups confectioners sugar

¾ lb. unsalted butter (3 ticks) softened but cold

2 T instant espresso

Procedure

1. Place the egg yolks and sugar  in a heavy sauce pan and with a wooden spoon, mix them together until well blended.

2. Put the milk in a small saucepan and heat it over medium heat until bubbles form around the edge of the pan.

3. With a wire whisk, beat hot milk gradually into sugar mixture.  Cook on low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until mixture is thick enough to coat a spoon.*

4. Place the hot yolk mixture in the bowl of a stand mixer.  Beat on high speed until double in volume and down to room t temperature.  Add the instant espresso.

5. Turn the mixer down to medium speed and add the butter, 2 tablespoons at a time.**

6. After all the butter has been added, turn the mixer up to high speed and beat for about 2 minutes until the buttercream becomes light in texture and forms soft peaks.

7. Remove cake layers from freezer.  Place one layer on the pan it was baked in turned upside down.  The cake and the pan will line up perfectly thereby allowing you to frost the sides and transfer the cake to a platter without any mess.  Spread frosting on the top of the layer.  Then place the top layer on. Spread frosting on the top of the cake and then the sides.  Allow the cake to rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

Optional: Make a syrup of 1/3 cup cold water and 3 T sugar. Stir and cook until sugar dissolves, 4 to 5 minutes.   Add 2 T Amaretto or Kahlau liqueur to syrup and brush on cake layers.

*The way I tell that the mixture is thick enough is that it begins to thicken on the bottom of the pan.  At that instant, scrape it into bowl of mixer.

**At this point the frosting will look gloppy, to use a technical term, but fear not.  It will come together and become glossy when beat at high speed.

Photo by sweetpaprika

Cherry Pie with Fresh Tart Cherries

With fresh tart cherries appearing in the markets,  I just had to move my cherry pie post to the head of the class. I hope you love it as much as I do.

There they were, glistening like the crown jewels, at this week’s farmers’ market.  Who could resist?  I couldn’t.  Plump, dead ripe, sour cherries,  the beginning of a succulent cherry pie.  Not frozen, not jarred, not canned nor, in my opinion, not sweet cherries, but tart.  If you ever wondered how cherry pie achieved its status in American food lore. this will clarify it all.

Pitted cherries

Dough

1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

½ t salt

2 T sugar

8 T unsalted cold butter cut into 1 T slices (1 stick)

2 T Crisco

3 to 4 T ice water

Pulse flour, salt and sugar in food processor until mixed.  Scatter butter  over flour mixture and pulse briefly. Add Crisco. Pulse again very briefly.  You should still see tiny bits of butter.  Pour 3 T ice water around bowl of processor. Pulse until dough holds together between thumb and fingers.  Add another tablespoon, if necessary, but don’t let ball form.  Place dough on work surface, pat together and press outward with heel of hand to incorporate butter into flour.  (Frissage)   Form into two 6-inch disks, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least ½ hour.

Filling

3 pints fresh tart cherries

1 cup blueberries

1 cup + 1 T sugar

4 T instant tapioca

¼ t salt

1 t fresh lemon juice

1/8 t almond extract

1/2 t vanilla extract

1 T butter

egg wash of 1 yolk and 1 T milk

raw sugar

Pit cherries. Place in a 5-quart Dutch oven along with blueberries, sugar, tapioca, salt, lemon juice, almond extract and vanilla extract.  Heat and stir on stovetop until sugar and tapioca are dissolved.  Cool.

Roll out one disk of dough to a 12-inch round and fit into a 9-inch pie pan.  Trim to a 1-inch overhang.  Roll out second disk and cut into ten ¾-inch strips. Spoon filling into pie tin.  Arrange bits of butter on top.  Brush rim of pie dough with egg wash.  Place five strips of dough across pie at roughly ¾-inch intervals.  Place the other five across pie at an angle revealing diamond-shaped openings.  Press lightly at rim to adhere strips to rim.  Pinch off overhang of strips.  Then fold overhang of bottom crust over strips and flute edge. Brush strips and fluted edge with egg wash and then sprinkle raw sugar on dough.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and place on bottom shelf of oven to catch any drips.  Then bake pie in lower third of oven at 425 degrees for 15 minutes.  Turn oven down to 325 and bake for 30 minutes or until crust is lightly browned and juices bubble.  Cool thoroughly.  Serve with, what else, a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Photos by sweetpaprika

Ice Cream Dreams

           I must have inherited my craving for ice cream from my mother.  She loved a  banana split with  hot fudge cascading over three scoops of ice cream topped with whipped cream, chopped nuts and, of course, a maraschino cherry.   I, too, am a chocoholic just like her.  I well remember the special ice cream treats we enjoyed after a movie.  I know she never heard of gelato nor most of the unusual flavors we have today but, let’s face it, what beats a hot fudge sundae?

Maple Syrup Gelato

The luscious flavor and  mouthfeel of this silky confection will prompt you to get out your ice cream maker and check your supply of maple syrup.  The procedure couldn’t be easier.

The cornstarch slurry and vodka prevent the gelato from melting too quickly yet keep it soft.

2 1/4 cups whole milk

2 T cornstarch

¾ cup pure maple syrup

2 T vodka (not flavored)

1. Mix ¼ cup milk with 2 T cornstarch to form a slurry.  Set aside.

2. Heat 2 cups milk just to the boiling point.

3. Add cornstarch slurry and whisk until slightly thickened. Take off heat.

4. Slowly stir in maple syrup until well blended.

5. Pour into a bowl and cool to room temperature.

6. Place in refrigerator until well chilled.

7. Stir in 2 T vodka and freeze in ice cream maker according to directions.

8. Transfer to a container when thick and creamy and place in freezer.  The gelato is best eaten within one or two days, but if you manage to keep it a few days longer, the vodka will prevent it from getting hard.  Makes ¾ quart.

Inspired by Chef Jonathan Pratt

Blood Orange Sherbet

1 tbsp. grated zest

7 oz. sugar

1/8 tsp. salt

2 cups freshly squeezed blood orange juice (about 8 blood oranges)

4 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1 lemon)

2 tsp. vodka or triple sec

2/3 cup heavy cream

1. Place the zest and sugar in a large bowl.

2. Rub the zest and sugar together with your fingers until sandy and wet.

2. Whisk in the salt, orange juice, lemon juice, and vodka.

3. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. You can leave the zest in, but the texture won’t be as smooth.

4. Chill the mixture until very cold, about two or three hours. (45 min. in the freezer works, but don’t let it freeze or get icy. It won’t incorporate into the cream.)

5. In a separate, large mixing bowl, whisk the heavy cream until soft peaks form. Slowly drizzle the orange juice against the side of the bowl while whisking.

6. Turn ice cream maker on and pour the sherbet base through the feed hole. Churn until thick. Transfer to an airtight container and let harden for a few hours until serving. Keeps well for 1 week. (It will get icier the longer it sits, but the flavor won’t suffer much.)

Note: You don’t have to use the vodka, but the texture won’t be the same and you will have to let the sherbet soften a bit before scooping.  Makes 1 quart.

Adapted from Cooks’ Illustrated

Orange Sorbet

A delightful icy refreshment for a sultry day . . . and soooo easy to make.

1 cup water

½ cup sugar

2 cups fresh orange juice

1. Make a sugar syrup by bringing water and sugar to a boil in a small sauce pan.  Keep it at a slow simmer for 20 minutes. Take off heat and let cool.

2. Add orange juice.  Taste for sweetness.

3. Chill in refrigerator.  Make your sorbet according to the manufacturer’s instructions for your ice cream maker.

4.  For a decorative twist you can create frozen orange cups from oranges cut in half.  Gently scoop out the contents, removing all the pulp. Place in the freezer for about an hour until the orange halves are frozen.

5. When sorbet is ready, scoop into orange cups, garnish with fruit and serve.

Ice Cream Dreams

by Victor Ribaudo

I do believe we’re all kids at heart, to some extent.  Hence, my inner child still gets giddy in amusement parks and when receiving Christmas gifts.  I’m not ashamed to admit it.  As far as food goes, I’m sometimes tempted to order from the kids’ menu.  They won’t let me, though.  So I’m thrilled when a host serves me a chicken fingers and fries.  Even pasta with mini meatballs!  And when it’s time for dessert, I can still be heard screaming for ice cream.

Picture it, Brooklyn 1966.  I’m playing stickball in the streets, and the ice cream truck’s jingle can be heard from two blocks away.  “Ma,”  I scream, “it’s here!”  That’s all I have to say.  She comes to the front door, hands me some change (back then, that’s all you needed) and in a few moments I’m in heaven with a double cone, one side vanilla, the other chocolate, both covered in multi-colored sprinkles.  Didn’t take much to make me happy back then.  Still the case now.

Ice cream can be enjoyed in so many different ways.  Out of tub, ready to be scooped in a large bowl – or just eaten with spoon in hand in front of late night TV.  Soft serve, swirled in a cup or cone (I now prefer the harder sugar cones).  Sandwiched between chocolaty wafers or, better yet, giant chocolate chip cookies. Or at a gelato shoppe, pressed between two pizzelles (sort of flat Italian waffles).  Speaking of gelato, have you tried the olive oil variety?  You’ll find it every once in a while at Bomboloni in NYC, on Columbus Avenue and 69th Street.  Sounds strange, but man, it’s outrageous.  Ultra smooth and rich.

I’ve been known to create strange concoctions with ice cream.  Well, strange to my mother, that is.  For instance, I like to add salted peanuts to my bowl of vanilla.  A drizzling of fudge syrup and, as we say in Brooklyn, “Who’s better than me?”  I’ll sometimes sprinkle cinnamon and cayenne on chocolate ice cream.  The contrast of cold cream and hot spice is fascinating to me.  Ever mix crushed pretzels and potato chips in your ice cream sundae?  Eat it fast, before the chips and pretzels get soggy.

Well, I can be a traditionalist as well.  Banana Splits are favorite weekend treats in my home.  Nuts in syrup, chocolate sauce, mini marshmallows, whipped cream…you name it.  Always with the cherry on top, of course.  I’ll do a Baked Alaska every once in a while.  Even ice cream cakes.  Oh, the store bought varieties are OK.  But I go all out with freshly baked sponge cakes, sliced and spread with preserves and then layered in a spring form pan with different ice cream flavors and crumbled cookies.  Freeze and then unhinge the pan before serving.  The icing is up to you but one thing is for sure; your guest of honor will be impressed.

I’m not sure if sorbets and Italian ices belong in this blog, but I’ll go ahead  and mention them anyway.  Sorbets can be very refreshing, as you know.  I love when they’re served mid meal to cleanse one’s palate.  Flavors can run from ordinary fruit to exotic combos.  I tasted a lemon and fresh ginger sorbet once that blew my mind.  You can get fancy and serve them in hollowed out oranges, lemons and coconut shells.  I don’t really find it necessary though.  If it’s a freshly made sorbet, it tastes just as good in a bowl.  As for Italian ices, well, that’s another story.  I insist on enjoying mine in those flimsy paper cups.  The only way to go, as far as I’m concerned.  As for a favorite flavor, to me nothing beats melon – especially cantaloupe.

We’re experiencing an early heat wave here in New York City.  So I’m opting for out of the office and into the gelato shoppe a block away.  There’s a pistachio two scooper with my name on it.

Recipes by Phyllis Kirigin

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Maple Syrup Gelato

Jonathan Pratt scooping samples of his maple syrup gelato

Meet Jonathan Pratt, owner of Peter Pratt’s Inn, an award-winning American regional restaurant in Yorktown, NY.  From time to time Jonathan shares his culinary expertise to a full house of eager food lovers by presenting a cooking demonstration at the nearby Croton Free Library.  His latest offering featured a Moroccan lamb tagine and couscous (an upcoming post) and a surprising two-ingredient dessert—maple syrup gelato, the sap of which was recently tapped from his own maple trees.  The luscious flavor and mouthfeel sent me home to get out my ice cream maker and check my supply of maple syrup.  The procedure couldn’t be easier.

I altered Jon’s recipe by adding a cornstarch slurry and vodka to prevent the gelato from melting too quickly yet keeping it soft.  (Makes 3/4 quart)

Ingredients

2 1/4 cups whole milk

2 T cornstarch

¾ cup pure maple syrup

2 T vodka (not flavored)

Procedure

Mix ¼ cup milk with 2 T cornstarch to form a slurry.  Set aside. Heat 2 cups milk just to the boiling point.  Add cornstarch slurry and whisk until slightly thickened. Take off heat.  Slowly stir in maple syrup until well blended.  Pour into a bowl and cool to room temperature.  Place in refrigerator until well chilled (preferably overnight).  Stir in 2 T vodka and churn in ice cream maker according to directions. Transfer to a freezer container when thick and creamy and place in freezer.  The gelato is best eaten within one or two days, but if you manage to keep it a few days longer, the vodka will prevent it from getting hard.

Photos by sweetpaprika

Easter Dessert: A Tart to Dazzle

What better way to usher in Spring than with a luscious and colorful fresh fruit tart?  This recipe will fill a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. (8 servings)

Ingredients

Dough for pastry crust:

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

2 T superfine sugar

1 t salt

4 T butter

4 T Crisco

1 egg yolk

ice water

Procedure:

1. Place flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor with metal blade in place.  Pulse just until mixed.

2. Add butter and Crisco in 1-tablespoon pieces and egg yolk.  Process until only pea size pieces of fat remain.

3. Distribute 3 tablespoons ice water over mixture and process just until mixture holds together when pinched between fingers.  Add a little more water if necessary.  Don’t let a ball form.

4. Place dough on a lightly floured surface.  Press heel of hand into dough and smear outward several times (frissage). This will incorporate fat and make dough less likely to break when rolled out.  Form into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a half hour.

5. Roll out tart crust to a 12-14 inch round and fit into a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom.

6. Gently fit dough into edge of pan without stretching.  Cut overhang with kitchen shears outside the rim to give the sides a little extra dough.  Chill in refrigerator or freezer for a half hour.

Blind Baking the Shell

7. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Line pastry crust with a large coffee filter paper or parchment paper.

8.  Fill to ½inch with pie weights or dried beans.  Bake in lower third of oven for 15 minutes.

9. Take out pie weights and filter paper.  Prick bottom of shell in several places to prevent it from puffing up.

10. Place back in oven for 12 to 15 minutes more until fully baked and lightly browned.  Cool in tart pan on a rack.

strawberry rhubarb pie

Pastry Cream

Ingredients

½ cup milk

4 t flour

2 T sugar

Pinch salt

2 t powdered gelatin

1 egg

½ t vanilla extract

½ cup heavy cream, whipped

Procedure

11. Heat milk in a small saucepan. Place flour, sugar, salt and gelatin in a heavy saucepan and stir together.

12. Mix in the egg with a wooden spoon until a smooth paste is formed.  Slowly whisk in the hot milk.  Place the saucepan over medium heat, whisking until mixture becomes a thick custard.

13. To aid cooling, place mixture in a small bowl and allow to cool to room temperature.  Stir in vanilla. Fold in the whipped cream   Spread custard over pre-baked pastry shell.

orange tart

Arranging the Fruit Topping

14. Now you can get those creative juices flowing and decorate your tart with the fruit of your choice. Choose what you love and what’s fresh in the market. Plums sliced into wedges, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, ripe mango cut into uniform shapes.  The list goes on.

15. Start at the outside rim and work your way toward the center, overlapping where necessary and voila!  . .  a beautiful fresh fruit tart.  Leave as is or glaze as follows:

16. Melt 4 oz. apricot preserves in a small saucepan.  Strain through a sieve.  Loosen with a little water or liqueur, if necessary.  With a small brush, apply to fruit.  It will win you kudos either way.

Fresh Fruited Holidays

fresh fruit kebobs with celery seed dressing

By Victor Ribaudo

just picked strawberries

I love the Spring Holiday season.  Whether I’m seated a friend’s Seder dinner for Passover, or my family’s Easter celebration, there’s a sense of renewal and rebirth that only this time of year can offer.  Gastronomically speaking, that inevitably spells fresh fruit to me.

When invited to Passover dinners, I’m very conscious of what’s Kosher and what’s not. So to play it safe I bring a nice Kosher wine as well as a fresh fruit tray.  Everyone loves the freshness of fruit at the end of the meal, before coffee and desserts are served.  As for the Easter menu at my Mom’s home, we also include fruit in the offing.  Fruit is fresh and colorful…very much like Easter itself.  And we find interesting ways to incorporate it into our recipes.

As I mentioned in our last blog, ham is very often featured as the centerpiece of the Easter spread.  And nothing complements it better than fruit.  My Mom does a great pineapple in butter rum sauce, studded with plump raisins.  She discovered it at a diner, of all places.  They wouldn’t offer her the recipe, so she deconstructed it on her own and came up with something spectacular.  It’s basically a Bananas Foster, except with pineapple.  Really nice ladled over slices of smoky ham.

flaming pineapple

I, on the other hand, take pineapple rings and grill them on the backyard barbecue.  Simple, really.  Just coat the fresh rings with sugar and grill until there’s a nice caramelization happening.  It’s usually the first “grill” of the season, which excites me because it sort of ushers in warm weather celebrations for us all.  A delectable counterfoil to the saltiness of the ham.

apple pie

Pineapple is just the beginning of our fruit forays for the Holiday.  Instead of mint jelly for my lamb, I opt for beautiful compote of fresh fruits.  While some fruits are not really in their season, there are still plenty of choices out there.  Mango, for instance.  You may also want to investigate a dried fruit compote recipe, which is actually a Passover favorite for many families.  I really like what fruit does for lamb.  And for those mint and lamb lovers, you may include a few sprigs as you prepare your compote.

skewered fruit

Of course, your holiday salad can incorporate any number of fresh fruits.  I like the taste of fresh strawberries or raspberries and feta cheese in my salad.  I dress it with olive oil and lemon juice.  Greek inspired, I find this salad complements my lamb in a gyro sort of way.  Orange slices, accompanied by toasted almond slivers, is another salad favorite of mine.  I usually go Asian and dress this one with sesame oil and rice vinegar.  Of course, fresh green grapes in your salad are always a welcome sight.  An interesting tartness balances out the other ingredients well.  Really, there’s no end to the fruit and salad possibilities.

Now on to the holiday finale.  In true Italian fashion, we serve fresh fruit before coffee and pastries and the like.  We will often offer appropriate cheeses and nuts as well.  When desserts do arrive, there is the Pizza di Grano, of course (an Italian cheesecake with wheat berries).  However, there are often fruit pies to be found as well.  Blueberry, strawberry and cherry are my preferred choices.  I must admit, though, that fresh fruit tarts are really what I long for this time of year.  Depending on what looks good at your fruit stand, you can let your culinary imagination run rampant here.  Be creative, make lovely designs and have a ball.  We asked Phyllis for her favorite recipe.  Try it.  It’s fabulous.

cheese plate

Fruit makes it lively.  That’s my motto.  Just what we all need this time of year, as hints of milder, longer days and happy celebrations are all around us.  After a long winter, we’ve all earned it.  Enjoy!

Photographer Bill Brady

(Strawberry rhubarb pie by sweetpaprika)

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Blueberry Lattice Pie

Need a luscious Easter dessert?  Something both sweet and tart with a light buttery undertone?  Think blueberries.  Available year round and often sporting a more than reasonable price.  And if that weren’t enough, blueberries have been found to be a “superfood”, so good for you that you should go out of you way to eat them.

And what could possibly be better than eating them out of hand?  How about a mouth-watering blueberry pie?  You may be picturing a pie with the juices running amuck or worse, a gluey texture.  Not to worry.   I think you’ll find this recipe to have the perfect texture with a combination of jammy and whole berries.  Enjoy!

Dough

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 t salt

2 T sugar

12 oz. unsalted cold butter cut into 1 T slices

4 T Crisco

¼ to ½ cup ice water

Pulse flour, salt and sugar in food processor until mixed.  Scatter butter over flour mixture and pulse briefly. Add Crisco and pulse again.  You should still see tiny bits of butter.  Pour ¼ cup ice water around bowl of processor. Pulse until dough holds together between thumb and forefinger.  Add more gradually, one tablespoon at a time, if necessary.    This is a key step. Dough should not look dry nor should it look wet.   Don’t let ball form.  Place dough on work surface, pat together and press outward with heel of hand to incorporate butter into flour.   Gather into a ball and divide in half.  Form into disks.  Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate for about an hour.

Line a large cookie sheet with aluminum foil to catch any filling that may bubble over.  Heat in a 400 degree oven while you’re making the filling.

Filling

4 pints fresh blueberries

1 cup sugar

1 t lemon zest

1 t fresh lemon juice

½ t ground cinnamon

¼ t freshly ground nutmeg

4 T tapioca flour (or cornstarch)

2 T unsalted butter cut into small cubes

Egg wash made with one egg beaten with a pinch of salt

1 t coarse sugar for finishing top of pie (optional)

Directions

Rinse and pick over blueberries.  Set aside 2 cups. Place remainder in a non-reactive saucepan along with sugar.  Cook over medium heat until the sugar melts and mixture is bubbling.  Stir and don’t allow mixture to stick to bottom of pan.  Add lemon zest, lemon juice, ground cinnamon, nutmeg and tapioca flour.  Continue stirring until mixture has thickened and is lightly bubbling.  Set aside to cool.

Roll out one disk of dough to fit into deep dish pie pan.  Trim overhang and place in freezer while you roll out the second disk of dough for the top.  Using a pastry cutter, cut strips of dough 1 inch wide.  Fold the 2 cups of whole berries and butter into blueberry mixture and fill bottom crust mounding in center.

Lightly moisten top edge of bottom crust with water.  Arrange strips of dough across top spacing about ¾ of an inch apart.  Then add strips at an angle across the first set.  Press onto bottom crust and trim overhang.  Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar.  Place in oven on preheated baking sheet.  Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes and then lower to 350 for 25 to 35 more or until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbling.

Cool on a rack.  Serve with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.  Serves 8.

Photographer Bill Brady http://bit.ly/9wFYxm

Food Stylist Brian Preston Campbell  http://www.preston-campbell.com

Let ‘em Eat Cake . . . Cheesecake, That Is

Italian cheesecake with raspberry coulis (photo by sweetpaprika)

I’ve always preferred the light, ethereal Italian cheesecake to the sometimes cloying New York cheesecake.  The latter uses cream cheese only, but the Italian version includes sour cream for tang and ricotta for lightness.  The citrus zest is a must.

This recipe appeared in The Daily News in 1979.  It was featured in a little northern Italian restaurant in Greenwich Village called New Port Alba.  It’s both rich and delicate.  I serve it with fresh raspberry coulis, the perfect accompaniment.

Ingredients

1 lb. whole milk ricotta cheese

1 lb. sour cream

1 lb. cream cheese (or mascarpone)

1 ½ cups granulated sugar

1 stick sweet butter, melted

Pinch of salt

3 large eggs

3 T flour

3 T cornstarch

1 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 ½ T pure vanilla extract

¼ t Fiori Di Sicilia,* optional

Finely grated zest from one orange and one lemon

Directions

1. Have all filling ingredients at room temperature.  Grease and flour the bottom and sides of a 9 X 3-inch springform pan.

2. In a stand mixer beat together ricotta, sour cream and cream cheese until well mixed.

3. Beat in sugar and then melted butter and pinch of salt.

4. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.

5. Add flour, cornstarch, lemon juice, vanilla, Fiori Di Sicilia and zest, beating until completely mixed.

6. Transfer to prepared pan and bake in a preheated 300 degree oven for one hour.

7. Turn off heat and let cake stay in oven, door closed, for another hour.

8. Remove and let cake cool completely in pan, set on a wire rack.  Cover and refrigerate.  Remove sides of pan before serving and serve slightly chilled.

Raspberry Coulis

In a small saucepan, mash and heat ½ pint of fresh raspberries with 6 oz. raspberry preserves and 1 T Grand Marnier, stirring until syrupy. Strain syrup and mix with ½ pint fresh raspberries.  Serve with cheesecake.

• Fiori Di Sicilia is an all-natural combination of vanilla and citrus with a pleasingly floral aroma.  Italians use it to scent their panettone and pandoro.  It can be mail ordered.

The Cheesecake Diet

by Victor Ribaudo

Why is it that every time I’m on a diet, someone puts a cheesecake on the table?  A conspiracy, I tell you!  Really, I’m only a mortal human being.  There’s just so much I can resist.  You know where this is leading, I’m sure.  Of course, my will power caves in and I end up with a big slab of it on my plate, waiting for consumption.  And consume I do.  But that’s what cheesecake is about.  Total indulgence.

Cheesecake isn’t really a cake, in my estimation.  It’s more like a really thick cheese custard.  So a misnomer is about the only negative thing I can say here since I don’t know anyone who doesn’t adore it. No wonder.  Whoever thought of combining fresh cream cheese, sour cream, eggs and sugar – then baking it in a spring form pan – is a genius in my culinary book.  But who did come up with the idea?

I’ve heard tell that the cheesecake, in its most literal meaning, was originated in Ancient Greece as it was served to Olympic athletes. More recent history records recipes for cakes made with cottage cheese that were brought to this country by immigrants.  However, it seems that the original cream cheese version was invented by Arnold Reuben, owner of the Turf Restaurant in New York City.  Good job, Arnold.

Now, I know there are several kinds of cheesecake.  While growing up, my parents were always entertaining guests for dinner.  Inevitably, someone would stop by a local bakery and bring a cheesecake for dessert.  You remember – the ones that came in the white boxes tied with string?  There was something not quite right about those cheesecakes.  Sort of fluffy and dry and strangely garnished with yellow cake crumbs.  Not my cup of tea.  The real deal, as far as this guy is concerned, is the thick, dense, creamy cheesecake that put Junior’s here in New York City on the map.  My Aunt Ann somehow procured their recipe, and began bringing it to family functions – on demand.  And it’s remained the only kind of American cheesecake for me ever since.

I say American cheesecake, because being the Italian that I am, I must mention our take on this bit of heaven.  These are made with ricotta cheese and often flavored with citrus.  I must say, the Italian cheesecake is truly sublime.  So much so that my friend Phyllis offered a recipe for you to try.  You’ll find it above.  Truly outstanding.

So, variations on the theme?  There are many.  Some prefer their cheesecake smothered with strawberries, cherries, blueberries or any other fruit.  I can do that.  Others desire it marbled with velvety chocolate. Works for me. Thanksgiving dessert tables offer pumpkin cheesecake, boasting those warm holiday spices. I look forward to it every year.  As for the crust – traditional or graham cracker both work.  I’m happy just as long as I’m served a large wedge.

Now, I know there are several kinds of cheesecake.  While growing up, my parents were always entertaining guests for dinner.  Inevitably, someone would stop by a local bakery and bring a cheesecake for dessert.  You remember – the one’s that came in the white boxes tied with string?  There was something not quite right about those cheesecakes.  Sort of fluffy and dry and strangely garnished with yellow cake crumbs.  Not my cup of tea.  The real deal, as far as this guy is concerned, is the thick, dense, creamy cheesecake that put Junior’s here in New York City on the map.  My Aunt Ann somehow procured their recipe, and began bringing it to family functions – on demand.  And it’s remained the only kind of American cheesecake for me ever since.

I’ve been known to brulee my cheesecake.  Just a sprinkling of sugar and a gentle torching do the trick.  Sometimes I add a sweet liqueur, such as Grand Marnier, to the mix.  Just a little bit goes a long way. I’ve also pulled all the stops and fried my cheesecake.  Just be sure that it’s really cold.  Then cut some small squares, dip them in batter, fry until golden and serve with whipped cream.  Hey, if they can do it with Twinkies and Oreos, I can do it with cheesecake.

On a diet?  Me too.  But look at it this way.  Salads and grilled fish or chicken all week will leave plenty of room for cheesecake on the weekends.  American or Italian style, just one slice will make life worth living.  That’s why it was invented.

Recipe by Phyllis Kirigin

Photographer Bill Brady

Written by Victor Ribaudo

Blog syndicated at the datingsymbol.com

Images were photographed at Gwynns Sweet indulgence
http://www.sweetindulgencesnj.com/